Posts Tagged ‘professional club-fitting’

Club Gapping- Why and How

March 31, 2011

Determining the distance you hit each club in your bag should not be a guess or done by comparing to your buddy.   Every month I look at the What’s in the Bag article in Golf Digest and see a PGA Tour Pro featured.   They always list carry distance for each club in the bag.   I can guarantee they can relay these carry distances off the tip of their tongues.

Why is then that the average golfer struggles to know how far they hit each club in their bag?  

1. The assumption that there is 10 yards of distance between each iron in their set.   This is rarely exactly the case.  

2. Very few players have actually measured the distances they hit their clubs.   Why it’s so important to use a GPS or range finder to determine the exact distance to the pin or front of the green, but not know exactly how far you hit your clubs is really a head scratcher. 

3. Until recently there has not been an easy accurate way to measure this accurately. 

4.  Most players go by their best ever shot to determine what iron to use, grossly over-estimating how far they hit the ball.   That is why so many PGA pros say they would recommend the average player use more club into the green.  

5.  Carry distance and total distance are not determined.   Carry distance is more important, but most players rely on total distance, because that’s what they see when they get to the green. 

6.  It takes too long to do this outside with a range finder or by walking it off.

We are starting a Club-Gapping program at Totally Driven.   This is how we are going to do it:

1.  Use an accurate Launch Monitor.  In this case we chose the Foresight Golf GC2, because many industry experts have told us this is the most accurate indoor launch monitor, and it has club gapping software built into it.

GC2 Software

2.  Do the Club-Gapping in a controlled environment.   Outdoors is not controlled, as elevation and wind come into play.   Setting up the Launch Monitor for no wind and a level shot allows for accurate numbers.

3.  Use the golf ball you use on the course to measure.   Using range balls at a driving range is not going to give you accurate numbers.   These balls spin and launch differently than the balls you play and many of them are in poor condition.

4.  Measure carry distance.   This is difficult to do outside.   Many years ago the PGA Pro would have their caddy out in a field so they could measure where the ball landed.

5.  Take a good statistical representation of each club.   We do ours in an hour and ask that the player hit at least 5 and preferably 10 shots with each club.   NOTE:  It’s best to measure every club, as it’s quite common to have loft variances between clubs.

What to do with the results?

1. Know and use the carry distance for each club.   How far the ball rolls out is important, but that is more variable and is effected by tilt of the green, wind direction, hardness of the green and elevation changes.   Carry distance is effected by elevation and wind direction, but not tilt of the green or hardness of the green.   Knowing what club you need to carry a trap or hit to land in the middle of the green is much more reliable and should be more pertinent to your golf game.

2.  If your gaps are too close together or too far apart, consult your local Professional Club-fitter for a loft/lie assessment and/or to look at your set make-up.

3.  Determine how wind effects your shots when outside.   Rule of thumb has been for every 10 MPH of wind (when into the wind) you need one more club.   Is that accurate for you?   How about downwind and sidewind?

4.  Are you playing the right golf ball?   Again, consult your PGA Professional or Club-fitter if you are unsure if the ball you are playing is best for you.

5.  Use the information, don’t rely on what your playing partner is hitting.   Check your ego at the door.   It’s more important to hit the right club, not to hit a seven iron because everyone else is.   The bottom line is shooting the lowest score possible and if you’re not hitting the correct club for the distance, you are only hurting yourself.

Andy Thompson,

Totally Driven

www.totallydriven.com

651-578-0501

R11 Driver Fitting

March 5, 2011

The TaylorMade R11 Driver is out in force on the PGA Tour as you can tell on TV.   We have been fitting the R11 Driver at Totally Driven for the last month and it has been a hit with customers and is really a club-fitter’s dream.   Beyond the white club-head (great marketing move by TaylorMade), the technology of this driver is second to none.  

TaylorMade has a number of acronyms to describe the adjustments that can be made to this driver:

FCT = Flight Control Technology- This allows the driver to be set to fly higher or lower along with lie angle settings.  In reality the club-face also opens or closes with this setting.

ASP = Adjustable Sole Plate- This allows independent face angle adjustment of the driver while having minimal impact to the shot.   Where this comes into play is fine tuning to the player’s preferred look at address (open, closed or neutral).   When partnered with FCT setting, now allows for a closed face setting to address ball flight needs countered by and open face setting (for example) if the player doesn’t want to look at a closed face angle at address.

MWT = Moveable Weight Technology- This has been part of TaylorMade drivers for a number of years and allows for weighting towards the toe to promote a fade or the heel to promote a draw.

R11 Adjustments

R11 Adjustments

TaylorMade claims 100 yard side to side adjustment with this driver and 1000 RPM backspin adjustment.   I don’t know about 100 yards of  side to side adjustability (you can definitely create a considerable change), but the backspin can definitely be changed if you know how to adjust the driver.

TaylorMade has one shaft option for the base R11 which is the Fujikura Blur 60 in M/R/S/X flexes.   While this shaft will work for some players it obviously won’t be the correct shaft for most players.   There are also mulitiple shaft options in their TP versions which allow better fitting choices.   Totally Driven also offers various aftermarket shafts from Accra, Oban and Miyazaki that we can fit for, that really explodes the amount of options for the R11.   We have had great success fitting players for these aftermarket shafts to really dial in launch/spin and direction.  We also are able to use more than the factory supplied weights in order to control side spin/launch and spin as well as swing-weight.

R11 Oban Kiyoshi

R11 with Oban Kiyoshi

There is a bit of an art to understanding how to use the mulitple settings to best benefit the player.   While we don’t say we have all the answers we are getting pretty proficient at setting up the club to help the player hit it longer and straighter.  

Many players will buy this driver off the rack with a stock shaft (that may or may not fit them properly), unfortunately the technology will not help most of these players.   First of all they will not likely get the correct shaft, shaft flex, length, swing-weight or grip size needed.   Most players never use the adjustments that come on these clubs either from laziness or not understanding the capabilities at their disposal.   We see this everyday where a player comes in hitting a big slice and yet has never adjusted the driver to reduce this.

Really the best option is to get fit by a true professional club-fitter who understands the technology, has multiple shaft options available as well as the ability to adjust weighting, length and grip to get a really remarkable fitting.

Andy Thompson

Totally Driven

www.totallydriven.com

Forged vs. Cast Irons

February 28, 2010

Golfers often get confused as to the difference between forged and cast irons. The common misconception is that cast irons are large cavity back clubs made to benefit mid and high handicap golfers and that forged irons are strictly unforgiving blades that are made strictly for low handicappers and professionals.

You can actually find cast blades, forged cavity backs and even some very forgiving forged irons. The difference is really in the manufacturing process. Forging involves literally pounding or compressing a soft piece of carbon steel in its solid form, from which the head is made into the designed shape, after which a number of other machining steps are necessary to complete the process. Casting involves turning the metal into its molten, liquid state, after which it is poured into a mold to form the head design. From there the cast irons also go through some additional steps to finish them.

It ends out that forged clubs are more easily adjustable for loft and lie (which is helpful if your swing is undergoing changes), but also are softer and wear a bit faster. Cast clubs are more difficult to adjust, but may wear a bit longer particularly in the grooves.

If you have a cast iron and forged iron with exactly the same shape and specs in the two heads, and the heads are both shafted to the same exact specs (including shaft alignment), hitting the same ball, the shots will fly identical distances and many players would never know the difference. Some however can distinguish, and like the “softer feel” of a forged club. It really becomes more of what looks and feels best for the individual and then practicality. Most golfers know deep down when their game is not up to playing a blade or tiny cavity back iron (whether forged or cast).

Ultimately, getting the irons properly fit with the correct grip size, length, lie- angle, swing-weight as well as shaft weight, flex and bend point needs to be done regardless of the head chosen. Then depending on your ability, angle of attack, ball flight, thin or fat tendencies a club-head that meets your needs should be selected that meets your eye as well.

This is where Totally Driven’s  professional club-fitting expertise will greatly enhance your decision making and help answer any additional questions you may have.

Andy Thompson

www.totallydriven.com


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